*changes for child size hat are in brackets [ ]
Sunday, December 2, 2012
*changes for child size hat are in brackets [ ]
Friday, October 26, 2012
With WW yarn and G hook:
1. ch 3. 12 DC in last ch from hook, join to first dc. (12 dc)
2. Ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each dc around, join (24 dc)
3. Ch 3, (2 dc, dc in next) 11 times, 2 dc in last st, join (36 dc)
4. Ch 3, dc in next st, (2 dc, dc in next 2) 11 times, 2 dc in last st, join (48 dc)
5. Ch 3, dc in next 2 st, (2 dc, dc in next 3)( 11 times, 2 dc in last st, join (60)
6-13 ch 3, dc in each dc around (60 dc) join (if doing ribbing, do not fasten off, but proceed. If not doing ribbing, fasten off.)
1. Ch 6. sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch (5 sc)
2. sl st in next 2 dc of hat.
3. turn. sc in next 5 sc (skipping the 2 sl st just made)
4. ch 1 turn. sc in next 4.
(repeat rows 2-4 around hat
sl st last row of ribbing to first row (the first 5 chains made to start ribbing)
Congratulations, you're done!
G hook and worsted weight yarn, ch 4. (dc, ch 1 in 4th ch from hook) 5 times. Join in 2nd ch of beginning ch 4 (6 dc, 6 ch 1)
2. ch 4. (yo, pull up loop in 4th ch from hook, ch 1 leaving 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo pull through 2 loops-Foundation double crochet (fdc) made.) Ch 1 (fdc ch 1) 3 more times. ch 3 more, sl st 3rd ch from hook (picot made)ch 1, (dc in base of fdc, ch 1)4 times.
3. sk dc ch 1 from previous row, sl st, repeat row 2until 4 petal are made.
4. *sk (dc, ch 1), sl st.sc in 3rd ch from previous row's ch 4. sc front loop only (flo) in each dc and ch 1 of petal, up one side, around picot(at point of picot, sc, picot (ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook), sc), down the other side. sc in sl st at base of petal, repeat from * around all 4 petals. If changing colors, end with sl st after last sc in sl st and fasten off. attach new color in sc. If not changing colors, proceed without sl st .
5. ch 5, (tr, ch1 in same sp) 8 times. working behind petal, sc in ch 1 sp of first row.working behind petal, *(tr, ch 1 in same sp) 9 times in sc between petals. working behind petal, sc in dc of first row repeat from * 2 more times. Join to 4th ch of beginning ch 5. If changing colors, fasten off and attach new color. If not changing colors, proceed.
6.ch 30. sl st in 2nd ch froom hook and next 10 ch. ch 18. (dc, ch 1)4th ch from hook, 3 times, dc. sk 2 ch, sc in next, sk 2 ch *(dc, ch 1) 4 times, dc* in next, sk 2 ch, sc in next,*(dc, ch 1) 4 times, dc*, sk last 2 ch of this offshoot, sl st in next ch of stem.sl in next 10, ch 20. (dc, ch 1) in 4th ch from hook. (dc, ch 1, dc ch 1 dc) in same sp. sk 2, sc, sk 3, *(tr, ch 1) 4 times, tr* sk 3, sc. sk 2, *(dc ch 1) 4 times, dc* in next sp sk last 2 ch, sl st in next ch of stem.sl st in last 7 ch, fasten off.
Wednesday, October 17, 2012
Thursday, October 11, 2012
What a fun project to design. Sorry, no pattern and I have no immediate plans to write one up, but these ski masks are very popular! I made this as a gag gift for my brother (pictured below with my son)
Wednesday, October 10, 2012
It's autumn time in Michigan and it puts me in mind of hats, scarves, and warm, cozy afghans. I decided to make another scarf. This is a simple repeat and a simple stitch using only dc and chains(at the beginning of the row) Using Teal WW yarn and an I hook, 21 FDC(If you prefer a thinner scarf, use less fdc, but make sure there is an odd number of stitches. The "x"s will be staggered, not stacked on top of each other. If you use an even number of base stitches, they will be stacked and have a different look) To do this, watch theyouTube video or seetext with pictures. *Alternatively, you could Ch 23, dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each across (21 dc) Row 2: Ch3, sk 1st dc,
dc in next dc, dc in 1st dc skipped (working over top of dc just made)
10 times. turn Repeat Row 2 till scarf is desired length. *One issue I have with this stitch is the tendency of the yarn to misbehave during the second part of the dc. As I complete a row I notice extra stitches in the previous row due to the tendency of the yarn to pull off. Instead of having a dc, I end up with a "hdc, ch1" in places. Please watch your yarn carefully. Of course, If I watched my yarn at all instead of watching tv, this wouldn't be a problem! It's only an issue when I do this x stitch so I believe it's the pull of the yarn during the crossing stage.
Now what I'm going to do is give it a twist and sew the ends together to make an infinity scarf! I hate to say it, but I'm not going to post a pic of the final product here because I've had so many issues posting pics from my phone and rearranging them on the computer to make sense. If you have any questions about the pattern, please contact me and I'll try my best to clarify.
Friday, September 21, 2012
Thursday, August 16, 2012
It's raining in my town and I'm still in my pajamas, though its after noon. I've been away from blogging, crocheting, and designing for a while and I've missed all 3! We moved into a new home recently and are finally settled in with a place for everything and everything in its place.
I've crocheted a few hats since we moved, but they were from someone else's pattern. I love headhuggers.org! Designed a gift for a friend that can't be posted till after Christmas. Made a rug for my niece. Working on a rug for my son, but need more yarn to finish it. Imagine that, needing more yarn! I'm thinking about designing some framable pieces, but I've never framed crochet before. Do you have any framed pieces?
Christmas is only 4 months away, so pick up those hooks and get working! Quality takes time and effort.
Tuesday, May 15, 2012
Sunday, April 1, 2012
I got this yarn from Walmart the other day. I've been wanting to try it out since I first saw it, but it's a bit more pricey than I'm used to and couldn't justify spending money on myself (I always have a hard time with that). But, since my niece gave me money to take her to work (at Walmart) and I had the time to look, and I needed stuff anyway, and I was right there...well, I justified it. I bought my first skein of Lion Brand Tweed Stripes yarn in Lakeside. What to do, what to do? My husband suggsted I make myself a pair of socks with it. I thought "why not?" so off to find a pattern. I found one here, at the Lion Brand website. I worked up one side, modifying the pattern slightly, in about 2 days. Well, it took my till 1:00 this morning so does that still count as 2 days? Anyway, I slipped it on and it's still a bit baggy in places, but I showed my husband what I made. He looked horrified! I disappointedly sighed "you hate them!" to which he replied "I don't 'hate' them...I just won't go out in public with you when you're wearing them." *Ouch* So I wonder if I should make the other sock or not! Maybe I should unravel enough to make it a knee high? Maybe I should wear it anyway? What do you think?
Thursday, March 8, 2012
Child size hat.
Bosnian crochet is very tight and stiff so we need to use a larger hook so we don't hurt our wrists while making our hats too small! :-)
With worsted weight and K hook, chain 72. join.
1-6. sl st in each back loop around
7-12.sl st in front loop around
13-14. sl st in back loop around
15-20. sl st in front loop around
I'm going to explain the next few rows 2 different ways; one with numbers and specific counting per row, and this way, with a general guideline for the next several rows.
*general guideline: 5 sl st in back loop, 5 sl st in front loop, repeat for rows
21. (5 sl st in back loop, 5sl st in front loop)repeat 7 times, 2 sl st in back loop
22. 3 sl st in back loop, (5 sl st in front loop, 5 sl st in back loop)repeat 6 times, 5 sl st in back loop, 4 sl st in front loop
23. sl st in front loop, (5 sl st in back loop, 5 sl st in front loop) repeat 7 times. sl st in back loop
24. 4 sl st in back loop (5 sl st in front loop, 5 sl st in back loop) 6 times. 5 sl st in back loop, 3 sl st in front loop.
25. 2 sl st in front loop (5 sl st in back loop, 5 sl st in front loop) 7 times
26-36 repeat rows 21-25 twice more
37. sl st front loop only (flo)(72)
38. sl st flo 8x, skip next st around (64)
39. sl st flo 7x, sk next st around (56)
40. sl st flo 6x, skip next st around (48)
41. sl st flo 5x, skip next st around (40)
42. sl st flo 4x, sk next st around (32)
43. sl st flo 3x, sk next st around (24)
44. sl st flo 2x, sk next st around (16)
45 sl st flo ever other stitch (8)
fasten off, leaving enough yarn to weave through last 8 stitches. pull tight, tie off.
Wednesday, March 7, 2012
I only recently heard of the method of crochet called Bosnian, or slip-stitch crochet. It's created by using only the slip stitch. It's texture is created by using front or back loops only. This pot holder I made out of cotton using an I hook was first chained 40 stitches, then turned to sl st in each (minus the first stitch. Then, turn the work to sl st in each chain on the opposite side without adding any stitches at the end. When I got to the first chain made, I then alternated front and back loops (5 each) to create the striped pattern. Bosnian crochet tends to snug up when worked, so even though the starting chain was about 9 inches long, the ending pot holder is about half that size! The fabric is dense and stiff and I have a bit of a curl on two corners for some reason, but I love how it looks and plan on playing more with this method now that I've familiarized myself with it :D.
with I hook and cotton yarn, chain 40
1.sl st in each chain, turn to opposite side of chain and work 39 more sl st.
2. turn work without adding any stitches in end loops. sl st in front loops only 5 times, then in back loops only 5 times. repeat all the way around, being careful at ends for the first few rounds as the stitches are close together and easily confused.
3.Keep repeating until the work is about half as tall as it is wide at the starting chain.
4.Fold ends together so that the starting chain is diagonal across the corners. Sew closed using the front loop of one side and the back loop of the other. using leftover yarn from sewing, chain 6, join in corner with sl st. turn, sl st in each chain, secure and hide ends.
Wednesday, February 22, 2012
Using a lighter yarn works well for warmer weather wearables. Switching to a cotton or sock yarn to do a project is a simple way to transfer a winter wearable into a spring/summer item (but always check your gauge! Lighter yarns don't work up the same way heavier yarns do). Try making a lacy sun hat instead of a bulky, warm hat, or make a beach cover up instead of a sweater.
Another warm weather project is embellishments. Creating appliques for summer or winter wearables is always fun. Adding a flower to a hat makes a personal statement and changes the look at the same time. Crocheting a lacy edging around the collar of a favorite tee or blouse adds a feminine touch. Creating your own jewelry with crochet is stylish and whimsical. All these projects can be put into a purse or bag and brought with you on vacation as well.
You may want to try different projects altogether. Sitting under a pile of yarn can often become too warm and uncomfortable if the air conditioning isn't strong enough, or if you like to sit outside and crochet, like me. So why not try napkin rings, placemats, or dishcloths to name a few? They work up quickly and don't cover your lap with heavy, hot fabric. Another idea is stuffed animals or dolls. I've become quite enraptured by these, myself. I've made stuffed sheep, cartoon characters, people, and other toys.
So don't put down those crochet hooks for summer! Try something new and small, or practice your stitches on a favorite take-along project. But don't stop crocheting!
Sunday, February 5, 2012
These lined, drawstring bags are a finduraser item for the Relay For Life. I canworsted weight yarn: 2 colors, background/main color A and ribbon color B G hook cloth for lining sewing needle matching thread Using color A and starting with a magic circle, 6 sc, do not join. through both loops: 2. 2 sc in each sc (12 sc) (make sure to crochet over your hanging string so you won't have to tuck it in later!) 3. *1 sc, 2 sc* 6 times (18 sc) 4. *sc in next 2, 2 sc* 6 times (24 sc) 5. *sc in next 3, 2 sc* 6 times (30 sc) 6. *sc in next 4, 2 sc* 6 times (36 sc) 7. *sc in next 5, 2 sc* 6 times (42 sc) 8. *sc in next 6, 2 sc* 6 times (48 sc) still, do not join! begin sides back loop only: 10. hdc in next sc, dc in next 47 through both loops: 11-12. dc in each 13. Using B to start the ribbon, dc 1, change to A, dc in next 5, Change to B, dc 1, Change to A, dc in next 41 14. With B, dc in next 2, change to A, dc in next 3, change to B, dc in next 2, change to A, dc in next 41 15. dc in next, change to B, dc in next 2, change to A, dc, change to B, dc in next 2, change to A, dc in next 42 16. dc in next, change to B, dc in next 3, change to A, dc in next 43, change to B, dc in next 17. dc in next, change to A, dc, change to B, dc in next 2, change to A, dc in next 41, change to B, dc in next 2, change to A, dc 18. dc in next 2, change to B, dc in next 2, change to A, dc in next 44 19. dc, change to B, dc in next 2, change to A, dc, change to B, dc in next 2, change to A, dc in next 42 20. dc, change to B, dc in next 3, change to A, dc in next 44 21. dc, change to B, dc in next 3, change to A, dc in next 44 22-24. dc in next 48 25. dc in next 45, hdc, sc, sl st 26. ch3, dc in nextst, ch 2 sk 2 dc, *dc in next 2, ch 2, sk 2 dc* 11 times, join with a sl st to top of beginning ch 3 27. ch 3, dc in next 47, join, jasten off. Strap join A on one side of bag, with ribbon facing forward, *ch 3, dc in next 2* repeat till strap is desired length, join to opposite side of bag. Drawstring chain 100 with color B, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch after. fasten off. weave string through holes made by ch 2 spaces on bag. Before you sew in your lining, make sure the best looking side is showing! I always have to turn my bag inside out to have the side that looks best on the outside. If you've never sewn a lining before, try looking here. It isn't quite the same since our bag is round, but cut out a circle for the bottom and one long piece for the sides. Sew the side to the bottom (making sure the right side is on the inside, fold over and iron the top and sew down, then sew up the side seam. Follow the directions for sewing it into the bag here. I'm not the best seamstress (I'm uncomfortable even saying that word about myself!) so if this doesn't make sense let me know! I just follow the directions on the other site ;-)
Thursday, January 12, 2012
With green yarn and H hook, make a magic ring and ch 3 (counts as first st). 11 more dc in ring. Tighten and join.
round 2. ch3, dc in same sp. 2 dc in each st around (24 dc)join
round 3. ch 3, dc in same sp (dc, 2 dc in next)11 times, dc in last st (36 dc)join
round 4. ch 3, dc in next sp, 2 dc, (dc in next 2, 2 dc)around (48 dc)join
round 5. ch 3, dc in next 2 sp, 2 dc, (dc in next 3, 2 dc) around (60 dc)join
round 6. ch 3, dc in next 3 sp, 2 dc, (dc in next 4, 2 dc) around (72 dc)join
round 7-8, ch 3, dc in each dc around (72 dc)join
round 9. ch 3, dc in next 24dc, 5 tr in next dc, dc in next 20 dc, 5 tr in next dc, dc in next 25, join.
round 10. ch 3, dc in next 23, ch 1, skip 5 tr, dc in next 20, ch 1 skip 5 tr, dc in next 24, join (70 dc, 2 ch1)
round 11.ch 3, dc in each dc and each ch 1 around (72 dc)
round 12-14(or desired length). ch 3, dc in each dc around (72 dc)
to find centers of sides, fold hat in half so eye holes match up. Fold in half again. From 2nd crease, count 8 stitches to the right. Join green yarn and ch 3. dc in next 14.
row 2. ch 3, (yarn over, pull up a loop in next st, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull up a loop in next stitch, yarn over pull through 3 loops)decrease made. dc in next 9, decrease, dc in top of ch 3 from previous row.
row 3. ch 3, dec, dc in next 7, dec, dc in top of ch 3 from previous row.
row 4. ch 3, dec, dc in next 5, dec, dc in top of ch 3 from previous row.
row 5. ch 3, dec, dc in next 3, dec, dc in top of ch 3 from previous row.
row 6. ch 3, dec, dc in next , dec, dc in top of ch 3 from previous row.
row 7. ch 3, dec, dec
row 8. *ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 7, sl st in next dc, (repeat from *) ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 7, sl st in base, fasten off.
repeat on other side
with yellow, attach with sc to 9th st. sc in same sp. 2 sc in next 2 st. fasten off.
repeat for other 2 "fingers"
repeat on other side.
eyes (make 2)
with white, make magic ring as before, ch 3, 11 dc in ring (12 dc) fasten off.
with black, make slip know insert hook through center of white circle, place knot on hook, pull through, insert hook between 2 dc, yarn over, pull up and fasten off. pull end through to secure. (I like to tie black ends together to assure the pupil doesn't come undone in the wash.)
sew eyes into eye holes from inside.
with red, sl st into first 2 stitches on front of hat.sc in next 2 st. hdc in next 2 st. dc in next 2 st. tr in next 5. dc in next 2. hdc in next 2. sc in next 2. sl st in last 2. turn. sl st into same st from opposite side and into next sl st. sc in next 2 sc. hdc into next 2 hdc. dc into next 2 dc. tr into next 5 tr. dc into next 2 dc. hdc into next 2 hdc. sc into next 2 sc. sl st into next 2 sl st. fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. sew top of mouth to front of hat.Alternate mouth: Insert hook 5 stitches in from ear flap 3rd row from bottom. Draw up a loop with red, insert hook between next 2 dc 1 row down draw up a loop through hat and red loop on hook. Continue in this manner in a curve across front of hat. Crown: optional With yellow, ch 31, join. Round 1: ch 1, sc in each ch, join. Round 2: repeat round 1. Round 3:00 ch 1, sc, hdc, dc, tr, dtr, ch3, sl st in first ch made, tr, dc, hdc, sc, sl st in next 3, *sc, hdc, dc, tr, ch 3, sl st in 1st ch made, dc, hdc, sc, sl st in next 3 repeat from *, sl st to join, fasten off. Sew onto top of hat.