Vintage white hat with ruffled brim

With white yarn (I used Caron Simply soft) and G hook,
*changes for child size hat are in brackets [ ]

1. 6 sc in  magic circle

2. in back loop only, 2 sc in each sc (12 sc)

3. (sc, 2 sc in next) 6 times (18sc)

4. (sc in next 2, 2 sc) 6 times (24 sc)

5. (sc in next 3, 2 sc) 6 times, (30 sc)

6. (sc in next 4, 2 sc) 6 times (36 sc)

7. (sc in next 5, 2 sc) 6 times (42 sc)

8. (sc in next 6, 2 sc) 6 times (48 sc)

9. (sc in next 7, 2 sc) 6 times (54 sc)

10. (sc in next 8, 2 sc) 6 times (60 sc)*if making a child size hat, proceed to step 14

11. (sc in next 9, 2 sc) 6 times (66 sc)

12. (sc in next 10, 2 sc) 6 times (72 sc)

13. (sc in next 11, 2 sc) 6 times (78 sc)

14. *skip next 2 sc (dc, ch1, dc) (v stitch made) in next sc* repeat around (26 v stitches made)[20 v stitches]

15. sk next sc, sc in each dc and each ch1 around (78 sc) [60 sc]

16-18. sc in each sc around (78 sc)[60 sc-for child size had, skip row 18 and proceed to 19]

19.-28 repeat rows 14-18 twice

29. Repeat row 14 30. (sc in dc, 2 sc in ch 1, sc in dc, 2 sc in next dc, sc in ch1, 2 sc in dc) repeat around (117 sc) [90 sc]

31. (sc in next 2, 2 sc) around (156 sc)[120-child size hat, sl st next 2, fasten off]

32.(sc in next 3, 2 sc) around (195 sc)

 sl st in next 2 sc, fasten off.

basic double crochet hat with optional ribbing

With WW yarn and G hook:
1. ch 3. 12 DC in last ch from hook, join to first dc. (12 dc)
2. Ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each dc around, join (24 dc)
3. Ch 3, (2 dc, dc in next) 11 times, 2 dc in last st, join (36 dc)
4. Ch 3, dc in next st, (2 dc, dc in next 2) 11 times, 2 dc in last st, join (48 dc)
5. Ch 3, dc in next 2 st, (2 dc, dc in next 3)( 11 times, 2 dc in last st, join (60)
6-13 ch 3, dc in each dc around (60 dc) join (if doing ribbing, do not fasten off, but proceed. If not doing ribbing, fasten off.)

ribbing (optional)
1. Ch 6. sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch (5 sc)
2. sl st in next 2 dc of hat.
3. turn. sc in next 5 sc (skipping the 2 sl st just made)
4. ch 1 turn. sc in next 4.
(repeat rows 2-4 around hat
sl st last row of ribbing to first row (the first 5 chains made to start ribbing)
fasten off
Congratulations, you're done!

lacy flower applique

Level: Experienced.
G hook and worsted weight yarn, ch 4. (dc, ch 1 in 4th ch from hook) 5 times. Join in 2nd ch of beginning ch 4 (6 dc, 6 ch 1)
2. ch 4. (yo, pull up loop in 4th ch from hook, ch 1 leaving 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo pull through 2 loops-Foundation double crochet (fdc) made.) Ch 1 (fdc ch 1) 3 more times. ch 3 more, sl st 3rd ch from hook (picot made)ch 1, (dc in base of fdc, ch 1)4 times.
3. sk dc ch 1 from previous row, sl st, repeat row 2until 4 petal are made.
4. *sk (dc, ch 1), sl st.sc in 3rd ch from previous row's ch 4. sc front loop only (flo) in each dc and ch 1 of petal, up one side, around picot(at point of picot, sc, picot (ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook), sc), down the other side. sc in sl st at base of petal, repeat from * around all 4 petals. If changing colors, end with sl st after last sc in sl st and fasten off. attach new color in sc. If not changing colors, proceed without sl st . 
5. ch 5, (tr, ch1 in same sp) 8 times. working behind petal, sc in ch 1 sp of first row.working behind petal, *(tr, ch 1 in same sp) 9 times in sc between petals. working behind petal, sc in dc of first row repeat from * 2 more times. Join to 4th ch of beginning ch 5. If changing colors, fasten off and attach new color. If not changing colors, proceed. 
6.ch 30. sl st in 2nd ch froom hook and next 10 ch. ch 18. (dc, ch 1)4th ch from hook, 3 times, dc. sk 2 ch, sc in next, sk 2 ch *(dc, ch 1) 4 times, dc* in next, sk 2 ch, sc in next,*(dc, ch 1) 4 times, dc*, sk last 2 ch of this offshoot, sl st in next ch of stem.sl in next 10, ch 20. (dc, ch 1) in 4th ch from hook. (dc, ch 1, dc ch 1 dc) in same sp. sk 2, sc, sk 3, *(tr, ch 1) 4 times, tr* sk 3, sc. sk 2, *(dc ch 1) 4 times, dc* in next sp sk last 2 ch, sl st in next ch of stem.sl st in last 7 ch, fasten off.

Christmas hat

This can be made without the pom pom on top. If making the pom pom, follow these instructions. I like to make the pom pom first so I know I have enough yarn for it. The remaining yarn determines how long the hat is. With Worsted weight Christmas yarn or color of choice and G hook, 6 sc in magic circle, pull tight. Do not join or turn throughout. If you prefer not to use the magic circle, ch 4, join with sl st. ch 1 (counts as 1st stitch) 5 sc in ring. 2. *sc in back loop, sc in front loop around (12 sc) 3.*sc in back loop, (sc in front loop, sc in back loop of same stitch) sc in front loop, (sc in back loop, sc in front loop of same stitch) 3 times (18 sc) 4. *sc in back loop, sc in front loop (sc back loop, sc front loop same stitch)6 times (24 sc 5. *sc back loop, sc front loop, sc back loop (sc front loop, sc back loop same stitch) sc front loop, sc back loop, sc front loop (sc back loop, sc front loop same stitch) 3 times (30 sc) 6. *sc back loop, sc front loop (2 times), (sc back loop, sc front loop in same stitch) 6 times (36 sc) 7. * (sc back loop, sc front loop) 2 times, sc back loop ( sc front loop, sc back loop in same stitch), (sc front loop, sc back loop) 2 times, sc front loop (sc back loop, sc front loop in same stitch) 3 times ( 42 sc 8. *(sc back loop, sc front loop)3 times (sc back loop, sc front loop same stitch) 6 times (48 sc 9. * (sc back loop, sc front loop) 3 times sc back loop, (sc front loop, sc back loop same stitch) (sc front loop, sc back loop)( 3 times, sc front loop, (sc back loop, sc front loop same stitch) 3 tiems (54 sc) 10. * (sc back loop, sc front loop) 4 times (sc back loop, sc front loop same stitch) 6 times ( 60 sc) 11. *(sc back loop, sc front loop) 4 times, sc back loop (sc front loop, sc back loop same stitch), (sc front loop, sc back loop) 4 times, sc front loop, (sc back loop, sc front loop same stitch) 3 times (66 sc) 12. *(sc back loop, sc front loop) 5 times (sc back loop, sc front loop same stitch) 6 times (72 sc) 13. *(sc back loop, sc front loop) 5 times, sc back loop (sc front loop, sc back loop same stitch), (sc front loop, sc back loop) 5 times, sc front loop, (sc back loop, sc front loop same stitch) 3 times (78 sc) repeat back loop, front loop alternations till hat is desired length. sl st next 2 stitches, fasten off. I used a 3 oz skein and used the whole thing. I thought about making it a slouchy hat instead of a regular fitting one, but put the fuzzy ball on top.

Sock monkey ski mask

What a fun project to design. Sorry, no pattern and I have no immediate plans to write one up, but these ski masks are very popular! I made this as a gag gift for my brother (pictured below with my son)

and when I posted a picture to my Facebook page I had requests to make them from about 5 different people! This can be made in any color, as sock monkeys are becoming very versatile colorwise. They always make a statement.

x-stitch scarf

skip one before dc in next

It's autumn time in Michigan and it puts me in mind of hats, scarves, and warm, cozy afghans. I decided to make another scarf. This is a simple repeat and a simple stitch using only dc and chains(at the beginning of the row) Using Teal WW yarn and an I hook, 21 FDC(If you prefer a thinner scarf, use less fdc, but make sure there is an odd number of stitches. The "x"s will be staggered, not stacked on top of each other. If you use an even number of base stitches, they will be stacked and have a different look) To do this, watch the youTube video or see text with pictures. *Alternatively, you could Ch 23, dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each across (21 dc)
Row 2: Ch3, sk 1st dc, dc in next dc, dc in 1st dc skipped (working over top of dc just made) 10 times, turn.  Repeat Row 2 till scarf is desired length.

*One issue I have with this stitch is the tendency of the yarn to misbehave during the second part of the dc. As I complete a row I notice extra stitches in the previous row due to the tendency of the yarn to pull off. Instead of having a dc, I end up with a "hdc, ch1" in places. Please watch your yarn carefully. Of course, If I watched my yarn at all instead of watching tv, this wouldn't be a problem! It's only an issue when I do this x stitch so I believe it's the pull of the yarn during the crossing stage.

Now what I'm going to do is give it a twist and sew the ends together to make an infinity scarf! I hate to say it, but I'm not going to post a pic of the final product here because I've had so many issues posting pics from my phone and rearranging them on the computer to make sense. If you have any questions about the pattern, please contact me and I'll try my best to clarify.

Seamless Crochet book review

Kristin Omdahl is one of my very favorite crochet designers. When I heard that she had a new technique being published in "Seamless Crochet" I was excited, to say the least. The concept is simple: projects made using motifs, but not cutting the yarn in between. Joining as you go without creating ends to weave in! Amazing idea, isn't it? The very first pattern in the book was made with one of her trademark swirls. I love swirls too, and I love shawls, and I figured since it was the first pattern so I'd try it first. The beginning motif turned out perfect and I was pleased. The next motif (made by making a chain, putting a loop on the end, and working from the loop as the center) was fine also until I came to the part where I was supposed to join them. Work in the motif, slip stitch into the corresponding stitches of the first motif, stitch in the motif you're currently working on...It didn't take me long to get lost. After a few tries I decided that I didn't have enough yarn to work this shawl anyway and I'd try a different pattern. Next pattern was just simply a disaster for me. Trying to figure out the "corresponding stitches" in the previous motifs was a nightmare. I had to lay my work flat and try to decipher the graph while reading the written pattern. Couple this with the myriad of typos in the print (why in the world would I chain 65 there?) and I gave this pattern up as a bad job also after several tries, piles of unraveled yarn and a heap of frustration. Then I decided to watch the video that comes with it. Great idea, Kristin, giving us a video and audio explanation of what in the world you're doing! This helped me understand the construction of the projects much better. Definitely watch the video first. It would have been nice to know beforehand that the first project printed was the most advanced technique in the book. It was nice to have the graph explained, since I've never followed a crochet chart before. But now I know that we're working partial motifs across the length, finishing them up on the way back, leaving the first motif of the row incomplete until the end of the entire project. Got it. I can do this now. Enter pattern attempt number three. I decide to make the skinny scarf into a fatter scarf. The video walks us through how to make the skinny scarf, the book instructs us how to make a 3 x 3 repeat. I figure I'd just keep going after the third repeat. I was wrong again. I tried several times to figure out how the next row (row 4) would be constructed, but was unsuccessful each time. It doesn't sound like it should be hard, but since the rows are offset (not squared at the edges) each of the first 3 rows is begun differently. The starting motif is worked it's own way, unlike any other in the project. The first motif in the 2nd row joins to the first and 2nd motifs worked. the third row joins only to the first motif in the 2nd row. The 4th row would join to the first and 2nd in the previous row, but since the first motif of the previous row isn't worked the same as the first motif in the first row, it doesn't work out that way. Are you tired of the word "motif" yet? I sure am. I clenched my teeth every time I heard it in the video, too. My conclusion? It would be easier and less time consuming to cut the yarn and weave in the loose ends. I love the concept and Kristin does a great job on her own projects, but I'm disappointed with the end result of my own. I'm returning this book back to the library without any future expectations of borrowing it again. One thumb up. Or 2 stars out of 5. Whichever you prefer.

Rambles from a tired artist

It's raining in my town and I'm still in my pajamas, though its after noon. I've been away from blogging, crocheting, and designing for a while and I've missed all 3! We moved into a new home recently and are finally settled in with a place for everything and everything in its place.

I've crocheted a few hats since we moved, but they were from someone else's pattern. I love headhuggers.org! Designed a gift for a friend that can't be posted till after Christmas. Made a rug for my niece. Working on a rug for my son, but need more yarn to finish it. Imagine that, needing more yarn! I'm thinking about designing some framable pieces, but I've never framed crochet before. Do you have any framed pieces?

Christmas is only 4 months away, so pick up those hooks and get working! Quality takes time and effort.

Featured: Momma's JAM Pack Crochet Creations

The Facebook Page for Momma's JAM Pack Crochet Creations is chock full of photos of her crocheted items, including hats, blankets, bags, toys, and more. The owner, Sara, lives in Alaska with her husband and 3 children so is sensitive to the attributes of yarn such as softness and warmth of finished product. Her items are not only functional, but adorable. Sara not only creates her own designs, but supports other crafters by purchasing patterns online. She has a very loyal fan base because of her quality handmade products and personal touches. I highly recommend her!

Thigh high leg warmers

I got this yarn from Walmart the other day. I've been wanting to try it out since I first saw it, but it's a bit more pricey than I'm used to and couldn't justify spending money on myself (I always have a hard time with that). But, since my niece gave me money to take her to work (at Walmart) and I had the time to look, and I needed stuff anyway, and I was right there...well, I justified it. I bought my first skein of Lion Brand Tweed Stripes yarn in Lakeside. What to do, what to do? My husband suggsted I make myself a pair of socks with it. I thought "why not?" so off to find a pattern. I found one here, at the Lion Brand website. I worked up one side, modifying the pattern slightly, in about 2 days. Well, it took my till 1:00 this morning so does that still count as 2 days? Anyway, I slipped it on and it's still a bit baggy in places, but I showed my husband what I made. He looked horrified! I disappointedly sighed "you hate them!" to which he replied "I don't 'hate' them...I just won't go out in public with you when you're wearing them." *Ouch* So I wonder if I should make the other sock or not! Maybe I should unravel enough to make it a knee high? Maybe I should wear it anyway? What do you think?

Bosnian crochet hat

Child size hat.

Bosnian crochet is very tight and stiff so we need to use a larger hook so we don't hurt our wrists while making our hats too small! :-)

With worsted weight and K hook, chain 72. join. 1-6. sl st in each back loop around 7-12.sl st in front loop around 13-14. sl st in back loop around 15-20. sl st in front loop around

I'm going to explain the next few rows 2 different ways; one with numbers and specific counting per row, and this way, with a general guideline for the next several rows.

*general guideline: 5 sl st in back loop, 5 sl st in front loop, repeat for rows

specific instructions: 21. (5 sl st in back loop, 5sl st in front loop)repeat 7 times, 2 sl st in back loop 22. 3 sl st in back loop, (5 sl st in front loop, 5 sl st in back loop)repeat 6 times, 5 sl st in front loop, 4 sl st in back loop 23. sl st in front loop, (5 sl st in back loop, 5 sl st in front loop) repeat 7 times. sl st in back loop 24. 4 sl st in back loop (5 sl st in front loop, 5 sl st in back loop) 6 times. 5 sl st in front loop, 3 sl st in back loop. 25. 2 sl st in back loop (5 sl st in front loop, 5 sl st in back loop) 7 times 26-36 repeat rows 21-25 twice more 37. sl st front loop only (flo)(72) decrease: 38. sl st flo 8x, skip next st around (64) 39. sl st flo 7x, sk next st around (56) 40. sl st flo 6x, skip next st around (48) 41. sl st flo 5x, skip next st around (40) 42. sl st flo 4x, sk next st around (32) 43. sl st flo 3x, sk next st around (24) 44. sl st flo 2x, sk next st around (16) 45 sl st flo ever other stitch (8) fasten off, leaving enough yarn to weave through last 8 stitches. pull tight, tie off.

Bosnian crochet potholder

I only recently heard of the method of crochet called Bosnian, or slip-stitch crochet. It's created by using only the slip stitch. It's texture is created by using front or back loops only. This pot holder I made out of cotton using an I hook was first chained 40 stitches, then turned to sl st in each (minus the first stitch. Then, turn the work to sl st in each chain on the opposite side without adding any stitches at the end. When I got to the first chain made, I then alternated front and back loops (5 each) to create the striped pattern. Bosnian crochet tends to snug up when worked, so even though the starting chain was about 9 inches long, the ending pot holder is about half that size! The fabric is dense and stiff and I have a bit of a curl on two corners for some reason, but I love how it looks and plan on playing more with this method now that I've familiarized myself with it :D.

Pattern:

with I hook and cotton yarn, chain 40
1.sl st in each chain, turn to opposite side of chain and work 39 more sl st.
2. turn work without adding any stitches in end loops. sl st in front loops only 5 times, then in back loops only 5 times. repeat all the way around, being careful at ends for the first few rounds as the stitches are close together and easily confused.
3.Keep repeating until the work is about half as tall as it is wide at the starting chain.
4.Fold ends together so that the starting chain is diagonal across the corners. Sew closed using the front loop of one side and the back loop of the other. using leftover yarn from sewing, chain 6, join in corner with sl st. turn, sl st in each chain, secure and hide ends.

summer crochet

Here in Michigan, winter is coming to a close and spring is starting to show through. I don't despair for my crocheting, though, because there are plenty of warm weather crochet projects out there!

Using a lighter yarn works well for warmer weather wearables. Switching to a cotton or sock yarn to do a project is a simple way to transfer a winter wearable into a spring/summer item (but always check your gauge! Lighter yarns don't work up the same way heavier yarns do). Try making a lacy sun hat instead of a bulky, warm hat, or make a beach cover up instead of a sweater.

Another warm weather project is embellishments. Creating appliques for summer or winter wearables is always fun. Adding a flower to a hat makes a personal statement and changes the look at the same time. Crocheting a lacy edging around the collar of a favorite tee or blouse adds a feminine touch. Creating your own jewelry with crochet is stylish and whimsical. All these projects can be put into a purse or bag and brought with you on vacation as well.

You may want to try different projects altogether. Sitting under a pile of yarn can often become too warm and uncomfortable if the air conditioning isn't strong enough, or if you like to sit outside and crochet, like me. So why not try napkin rings, placemats, or dishcloths to name a few? They work up quickly and don't cover your lap with heavy, hot fabric. Another idea is stuffed animals or dolls. I've become quite enraptured by these, myself. I've made stuffed sheep, cartoon characters, people, and other toys.

So don't put down those crochet hooks for summer! Try something new and small, or practice your stitches on a favorite take-along project. But don't stop crocheting!

Awareness ribbon bags free pattern

2 colors WW yarn (background color (A) and ribbon color (B))

Size G hook

cloth for lining, sewing needle, and matching thread (Optional)

1. with color A, 6 sc in magic circle (do not join)

2. 2 sc in each sc (12 sc) (make sure to crochet over your tail so you won't have to hide it later!)

3. (sc, 2 sc) x 6 (18 sc)

4. (sc in 2, 2 sc) x 6 (24 sc)

5. (sc in 3, 2 sc ) x 6 (30 sc)

6. (sc in 4, 2 sc) x 6 (36 sc)

7. (sc in 5, 2 sc) x 6 (42 sc)
8. (sc i 6, 2 sc) x 6 (48 sc)

9. (begin sides) in back loop only, hdc in next sc, dc in next 47.

10. dc in ea (48 dc)

11 rep row 10. (48 dc)

12. Using color B to start the ribbon, dc 1, change to A, dc in next 5, change to B, dc 1, change to A, dc in next 41.

13. 2B, 3A, 2B, 41A

14. 1A, 2B, 1A, 2B, 42A

15. 1A, 3B, 43A, 1B

16. 1B, 1A, 2B, 41A, 2B, 1A

17. 2A, 2B, 44A

18: 1A, 2B, 1A,  2B, 42A

19. 1A, 3B, 44A

20. 1A, 3B, 44A

21-23. dc in next 48

24. dc in next 45, hdc, sc, sl st

25 ch 3, dc in next st, ch 2, sk 2, (dc in next 2, ch 1, sk 2 dc) 11 times, join with a sl st to top of beginning chain 3.

26. ch 3, dc in each dc and ch, join, fasten off.

Strap:

Join A on one side of bag with ribbon facing  forward. (ch 3, dc in next 2) turn.  Repeat till strap is desired length. Join to opposite side of bag.

Drawstring:

With color B, ch 100. sc in 2nd ch from hook and each chain to end. Fasten off.  Weave through holes made by ch 2 spaces on bag.

*I have to turn my bag inside out to have the best side showing. You should see the ridge made on your back loop only row on the outside.

Now, cut out your fabric if you choose to line it.  trace around the bottom of the bag with pencil on the wrong side of the fabric and cut it out.  Measure the distance around the bag and cut out a rectangle that length. Sew the rectangle to the circle with the right sides together. Fold down the top edge of the lining and iron it down. Now insert the lining into the bag and pin, in, pin it in, right under the drawstring holes. Sew lining into bag. Do not go all the way through the crochet stitches, just snag the needle around the yarn on the inside of the bag and back through the lining.

Frog hat pattern

With green yarn and H hook, make a magic ring and ch 3 (counts as first st). 11 more dc in ring. Tighten and join.
round 2. ch3, dc in same sp. 2 dc in each st around (24 dc)join
round 3. ch 3, dc in same sp (dc, 2 dc in next)11 times, dc in last st (36 dc)join
round 4. ch 3, dc in next sp, 2 dc, (dc in next 2, 2 dc)around (48 dc)join
round 5. ch 3, dc in next 2 sp, 2 dc, (dc in next 3, 2 dc) around (60 dc)join
round 6. ch 3, dc in next 3 sp, 2 dc, (dc in next 4, 2 dc) around (72 dc)join
round 7-8, ch 3, dc in each dc around (72 dc)join
round 9. ch 3, dc in next 24dc, 5 tr in next dc, dc in next 20 dc, 5 tr in next dc, dc in next 25, join.
round 10. ch 3, dc in next 23, ch 1, skip 5 tr, dc in next 20, ch 1 skip 5 tr, dc in next 24, join (70 dc, 2 ch1)
round 11.ch 3, dc in each dc and each ch 1 around (72 dc)
round 12-14(or desired length). ch 3, dc in each dc around (72 dc)

Ear flaps:

to find centers of sides, fold hat in half so eye holes match up. Fold in half again. From 2nd crease, count 8 stitches to the right. Join green yarn and ch 3. dc in next 14.
row 2. ch 3, (yarn over, pull up a loop in next st, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull up a loop in next stitch, yarn over pull through 3 loops)decrease made. dc in next 9, decrease, dc in top of ch 3 from previous row.
row 3. ch 3, dec, dc in next 7, dec, dc in top of ch 3 from previous row.
row 4. ch 3, dec, dc in next 5, dec, dc in top of ch 3 from previous row.
row 5. ch 3, dec, dc in next 3, dec, dc in top of ch 3 from previous row.
row 6. ch 3, dec, dc in next , dec, dc in top of ch 3 from previous row.
row 7. ch 3, dec, dec
row 8. *ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 7, sl st in next dc, (repeat from *) ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 7, sl st in base, fasten off.
repeat on other side

with yellow, attach with sc to 9th st. sc in same sp. 2 sc in next 2 st. fasten off.
repeat for other 2 "fingers"
repeat on other side.

eyes (make 2)

with white, make magic ring as before, ch 3, 11 dc in ring (12 dc) fasten off.
with black, make slip know insert hook through center of white circle, place knot on hook, pull through, insert hook between 2 dc, yarn over, pull up and fasten off. pull end through to secure. (I like to tie black ends together to assure the pupil doesn't come undone in the wash.)

sew eyes into eye holes from inside.

Mouth (optional)

with red, sl st into first 2 stitches on front of hat.sc in next 2 st. hdc in next 2 st. dc in next 2 st. tr in next 5. dc in next 2. hdc in next 2. sc in next 2. sl st in last 2. turn. sl st into same st from opposite side and into next sl st. sc in next 2 sc. hdc into next 2 hdc. dc into next 2 dc. tr into next 5 tr. dc into next 2 dc. hdc into next 2 hdc. sc into next 2 sc. sl st into next 2 sl st. fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. sew top of mouth to front of hat.

Alternate mouth: Insert hook 5 stitches in from ear flap 3rd row from bottom. Draw up a loop with red, insert hook between next 2 dc 1 row down draw up a loop through hat and red loop on hook. Continue in this manner in a curve across front of hat. Crown: optional With yellow, ch 31, join. Round 1: ch 1, sc in each ch, join. Round 2: repeat round 1. Round 3:00 ch 1, sc, hdc, dc, tr, dtr, ch3, sl st in first ch made, tr, dc, hdc, sc, sl st in next 3, *sc, hdc, dc, tr, ch 3, sl st in 1st ch made, dc, hdc, sc, sl st in next 3 repeat from *, sl st to join, fasten off. Sew onto top of hat.

Professor Severus Snape

A Christmas present for my trusty sidekick turned out pretty good! Just an amigurumi basic doll with a cape added, hair, embroidered face, and a wand! He's cute so I thought I'd share him.